When watching surfers ride the waves the way they do, it almost looks like magic. They twist and turn, jump and dive on a surface of moving water with nothing but a surfboard. Well that surfboard, and the way it was designed, is how the surfer can use the elements to his advantage and ride those waves like he does, whether the waves he’s riding are mammoth or small. A good surfer will be able to use all of the physical aspects of how a surfboard and the environment work together, to be able to do some awesome things on the water.
How Buoyancy Works
A surfboard wouldn’t stay afloat unless it was less dense than the water below it. A waterproof coating on the board makes sure that the water doesn’t soak into the board, making it heavy so as to pull it under the water. Oftentimes, the shape of the board also determines how much of the bottom of the board actually touches the water while surfing, changing the buoyancy of the board.
What is Surface Tension?
If you’ve ever accidentally belly flopped into a pool then you have experienced the surface tension of water first hand. The way it works is that the molecules of water that are attached to each other to create the ‘body of water’ create somewhat of a film across the surface, making it easier for the surfboard to stay afloat. This is also the reason why waves retain their shape as they roll up to the shore, following the momentum of the water.
Gravity's Effect on Surfing
The surfboard’s buoyancy keeps the board up, and gravity keeps it down. It’s a perfect balance. While the surfer is riding a wave, gravity keeps the rider pulled onto the board so that he doesn’t fall off. However, if you DO happen to fall off your board, gravity can be a tricky thing to maneuver against.
The Effects of Mass
The water has mass. The surfboard has mass. The rider has mass. And the air has mass. How these things relate to each other largely depends on a lot of things. The water’s mass is constantly changing shape, hence the waves the board and rider will ride on. The surfboard’s shape and mass affects how it will maneuver on the water. The rider’s weight and shape can determine how fast turns and jumps can be made. The air, when windy, can affect both the water and the rider. Mass largely affects the overall dynamic of how the surfboard works.
Hydrodynamics in Action!
Being in an airplane, you have see aerodynamics at work. It’s the lift and drag that allows the airplane to fly. Hydrodynamics work in exactly the same way, but with water instead of air. The movement of the water as it forms into a wave, and how it rolls over and eventually crashes into itself is the hydrodynamics of water at play, and how that wave is formed directly affects how the surfer’s board will interact with the water.
Krysha Thayer - Krysha Thayer is curious by nature and writes with passion. If she didn't enjoy the topic, she wouldn't write about it.
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